قال تعالى : (و عل م آدم الاسماءكلها ثم عرضهم على الملاي كة فقال أنبي وني با سماء هو لا ء إنكنتم صادقين)

Transcription

1 الایة بسم الله الرحمن الرحیم قال تعالى : (و عل م آدم الاسماءكلها ثم عرضهم على الملاي كة فقال أنبي وني با سماء هو لا ء إنكنتم صادقين) صدق الله العظیم سورة البقرة ایة رقم (31) Dedication i

2 To my father The candle light that Shows me the road.. to my mother The warmest asylum That I resort to for Support To my sisters and brothers My eyes through which.i vise the world To my husband and daughters The sweetest garden of being To them all I dedicate this humble Work Acknowledgement ii

3 Thanks and deep gratitude should be convey to Almighty Allah Who gave the strength and power to complete this effort. Great indebtedness and deep appreciation should be reflected to Dr. Hago ElFadil Haroun my supervisor who helped me a lot through his guidance and precious advices without which this effort will not see the light. My thanks are extended to the staff of hospitals and students in universities and institutes in Khartoum state about their fruitful cooperation and support. Finally, I must show my indebtedness and gratitude to all who lend a hand to make this work possible List of Figures iii

4 Figure.page Figure 1-1: shows Chappal or open type footwear Figure 1-2: shows Sandal or strap attached footwear Figure 1-2: shows Boot and shoe or closed type footwear Figure 2-1: shoe style of men`s derby design 1 Figure2-2: shoe style of men`s derby design 2 Figure2-3: shoe style of men`s derby design 3 Figure2-4: shoe style of men`s monk derby design 4 Figure2-5: shoe style of men`s apron derby design 5 Figure2-6: shoe style of women`s derby design 6 Figure 2-7: shoe style of men`s oxford Figure2-8: shoe style of women`s oxford Figure2-9: shoe style of women`s sandal Figure2-10: shoe style of ladies court shoe Figure2-11: shoe style of men`s pantafola Figure2-12: shoe style of men`s ankle boot Figure2-13: shoe style of bootee Figure2-14: shoe style of men`s moccasin Figure2-15: shoe style of ball shoe Figure2-16: shoe style of ballet shoe Figure2-17: shoe style of chuplee Figure2-18: shoe style of causal shoe Figure 2-19: shoe style of Ghillie shoe Figure 2-20: shoe style of Gore shoe Figure 2-21: shoe style of Gore shoe Figure 2-22: shoe style of Gore shoe Figure 2-23: shoe style of Gore shoe Figure 2-24: shoe style of Gore shoe iv

5 Figure 2-25: shoe style of Gore shoe Figure2-26: the various uppers parts of the shoe Figure2-27: the vamps positioning in the shoe Figure2-28: the various styles of Tongues and Tabs Figure2-29: Apron and vamp wings Figure2-30: Toecaps and Wing caps Figure2-31: Quarters Figure2-32: Counters Figure2-33: the various styles of Saddles and Bars Figure2-34: Mudguards Figure2-35: Back Strap Figure2-36: mule shoe Figure2-37: Counter linings Figure2-38: blended insole Figure2-39: welt, middle sole and sole Figure2-40: the various styles of Heels Figure2-41: Illustration of foot bones and joints Figure2-42: Illustration of foot muscles Figure2-43: Foot and toe movement Figure2-44: shows three weight-bearing points in the foot Figure2-45: shows the five stages of human foot during propulsion Figure2-46: shows change of human foot due to movement Figure2-47: shows Hallux valgus condition Figure 2-48: shows Hammer toe condition Figure2-49: shows clawed toe condition Figure 2-50: shows Mallet toe condition Figure 2-51: shows conditions of Metatarsalgia Figure 2-52: shows the conventional foot measurements Figure 2-53: Insole length = foot length + fitting allowance v

6 Figure 2-54: FotoScan creates a full colour 3D image of the foot as well as accurate CAD data Figure 5-1: shows the comparison between work and land topography Figure 5-2: shows the comparison between diet and land topography Figure 5-3: shows the comparison between diet and human work Figure 5-4: shows the comparison between human work and genetic factor Figure 5-5: shows the comparison between land topography and genetic factor Figure 5-6: shows the comparison between diet and genetic factor Figure 5-7: shows the comparison between Foot length and joint Figure 5-8: shows the comparison between Foot length and waist Figure 5-9: shows the comparison between Foot length and instep Figure 5-10: shows the comparison between Foot length and long heel Figure 5-11: shows the comparison between Foot length and short heel Figure 5-12: shows the comparison between Foot length and ankle Figure 5-13: shows the comparison between Foot length and joint Figure 5-14: shows the comparison between Foot length and waist Figure 5-15: shows the comparison between Foot length and instep vi

7 Figure 5-16: shows the comparison between Foot length and long heel Figure 5-17: shows the comparison between Foot length and short heel Figure 5-18: shows the comparison between Foot length and long ankle Figure 5-19: shows the comparison between Foot length and long joint Figure 5-20: shows the comparison between Foot length and waist Figure 5-21: shows the comparison between Foot length and instep Figure 5-22: shows the comparison between Foot length and long heel Figure 5-23: shows the comparison between Foot length and short heel Figure 5-24: shows the comparison between Foot length and ankle Figure 5-25: shows the average foot measurements for female groups Figure 5-26: shows the comparison between Foot length and joint Figure 5-27: shows the comparison between Foot length and waist Figure 5-28: shows the comparison between Foot length and instep Figure 5-29: shows the comparison between Foot length and long heel Figure 5-30: shows the comparison between Foot length and short heel vii

8 Figure 5-31: shows the comparison between Foot length and ankle Figure 5-32: shows the comparison between Foot length and joint Figure 5-33: shows the comparison between Foot length and waist Figure 5-34: shows the comparison between Foot length and instep Figure 5-35: shows the comparison between Foot length and long heel Figure 5-36: shows the comparison between Foot length and short heel Figure 5-37: shows the comparison between Foot length and ankle Figure 5-38: shows the comparison between Foot length and joint Figure 5-39: shows the comparison between Foot length and waist Figure 5-40: shows the comparison between Foot length and instep Figure 5-41: shows the comparison between Foot length and long heel Figure 5-42: shows the comparison between Foot length and short heel Figure 5-43: shows the comparison between Foot length and ankle Figure 5-44: Shows the average foot measurements for male groups List of Tables viii

9 Table....page Table 2-1: the standard sizes according to British size system Table 2-2: the "O" sizes according to American size system Table 2-3: the standard sizes according to French or Continental size [Paris Point] size system Table 4-1: the questionnaire results of section one Table 4-2: the questionnaire results of section two Table 4-3: the results of group 1 of female individuals Table 4-4: the results of group 2 of female individuals Table 4-5: the results of group 3 of female individuals Table 4-6: the results of group 1 of male individuals Table 4-7: the results of group 2 of male individuals Table 4-8: the results of group 3 of male individuals Table 5-1: the statistical results for the foot length and width of group1 Table 5-2: the statistical results for the foot length and width of group2 Table 5-3: the statistical results for the foot length and width of group3 Table 5-4 :the average foot measurements for female groups Table 5-5: the statistical results for the foot length and width of group4 Table 5-6: the statistical results for the foot length and width of group5 Table 5-7: the statistical results for the foot length and width of group6 Table 5-8: the average foot measurements for male groups ix

10 Contents Subject...page x

11 verse Dedication Acknowledge List of figures.. List of Tables Contents. Abstract Arabic abstract... Chapter One: Introduction Introduction: 1.1Historical Background: 1.2 Shoe and its function: 1.3 Objectives: Chapter Two: Literature Review 2.1 Shoe Styles and Parts: Styles: Upper construction: Bottom construction: Parts of A shoe: Vamps: Tongues and Tabs Apron and vamp wings: Toecaps and Wing caps: Quarters: Counters: Saddles and Bars: Appliqués: Mudguards: xi

12 Back Strap: Fastenings: Linings: Ornamentations: Insole: Welt: Bottom filling: Sole: Heel: Midsole: Runner: Components: 2.2 Foot Anatomy: Muscles of the Foot: Foot ligaments and tendons: Foot nerves: Foot blood Vessels: Foot and Toe Movement: The Foot Arches: Skin: Function of the foot: Changes of the foot shape: Changes due to Growth: Changes due to weight bearing: Changes due to Movement: Troubles of feet: Damage to skin: Troubles of the toes: xii

13 Troubles of the arches: 2.3 Foot survey: Foot measurement: Technique of foot measurements: The measured parameters on the foot The length Width Joint measurement 2.4 Foot comfort and relationship to foot wear: 2.4.1foot care for the individual: 2.5 Sizing and Fitting Systems: Principles of size and fit: The concept of size system: British size system: American size system: French or Continental size [Paris Point]: Japanese size system: Mondo Point size [Metric size system]: The Europoint system: Conversion of sizes: Fitting of shoe: The fitting system: Fitting of a shoe: Main Points to the Fitting of Shoe: Last: Types of shoe last: Comparison between last and foot: 2.6 Elements of Fashion: xiii

14 2.7 Preparation of A working standard: Pattern generation: Spring for basic designs: 2.8 CAD for Foot wears: Capabilities of CAD systems in foot wear: Hardware requirements: CAD Pattern Engineering: Future directions in CAD: 2.9 Three Dimensional Feet Scanning: Chapter Three: Methodology 3.1 Experimentation: 3.2 Methods: 3.3 Materials: 3.4 Questionnaire: Content of questionnaire: The questionnaire objective: The targeted group: 3.5 Digital photography: Tools: Objective: Procedures: 3.6 Manual measurement: Tools: Objective: Procedures: Chapter Four: Results 4.1 The result of questionnaire: 4.2 The result of manual measurement: xiv

15 Chapter Five: Discussion 5.1 questionnaire analysis: Section one (Yes/No question): The first question: The second question: The third question: The fourth question: The fifth question: The sixth question: Section one / General description: 5.2 Section Two: Comparisons 5.2.1The seventh question: 5.2.2The eighth question: 5.2.3The ninth question: The tenth question: The eleventh question: The twelfth question: 5.3 The manual measurement analysis: Group 1: 6 15 years old females: Foot length and joint : Foot length and waist : Foot length and instep : Foot length and long heel : Foot length and short heel : Foot length and Ankle : Group 2: years old females: Foot length and joint : Foot length and waist : xv

16 Foot length and instep : Foot length and long heel : Foot length and short heel : Foot length and Ankle : Group 3: years old females: Foot length and joint : Foot length and waist : Foot length and instep : Foot length and long heel : Foot length and short heel : Foot length and Ankle : Group 4: 6 15 years old males Foot length and joint : Foot length and waist : Foot length and instep : Foot length and long heel : Foot length and short heel : Foot length and Ankle : Group 5: years old males: Foot length and joint : Foot length and waist : Foot length and instep : Foot length and long heel : Foot length and short heel : Foot length and Ankle : Group 6: years old males: Foot length and joint : Foot length and waist : xvi

17 Foot length and instep : Foot length and long heel : Foot length and short heel : Foot length and Ankle : Chapter Six: Recommendations 6.1 Difficulties and obstacles: 6.2 Recommendation: References Appendix1 Appendix 2 Abstract This research was conducted as a trial to get acquainted with the Sudanese foot shape and anatomy as it is necessary in the field of foot wear xvii

18 industry. Besides, the research aims at proposing shoes size and fitting system for Sudanese dwelling in Khartoum state and studying the factors affecting the shape of Sudanese foot. The study was conducted into two parts. The first part was questionnaire investigating a sample of 480 individuals from medical cadres operating in the medical and health institutions in Khartoum state about the most effective factors on the shape of Sudanese feet from Sudanese land vastness, land topography, work, diet and genetic factors. In the second part, foot survey through manual measurement was conducted for sample of 327 individuals as 172 males and 155 females. The sample was distributed into 6 groups to be three for each sex according to their age and their foot length, width, joint, waist, instep, long heel, short heel and ankle s were measured for each one. The obtained results from the first part were subjected to analysis using The Statistical Package for Social Science application program (SPSS) which showed that the type of work is the most effective factor on the shape of Sudanese feet when it is compared with diet and land topography factors. The topography factor is more effective than diet factor. Whereas the genetic factor is the most effective factor on the shape of Sudanese feet when it is compared with land topography, diet and work factors. Generally, it was found that the genetic and work factors are more effective that the other factors on determination of the Sudanese foot shape. Also, the obtained results from the second part were subjected to analysis using The Statistical Package for Social Science application program (SPSS) determining the common foot measurements for the group 1 of females with age ranging from 6 to 15 years old to be foot length (221.97mm), width (87.478mm), joint (204mm), waist (197.72mm), instep (207.28mm), long heel (305.03mm), short heel (279.03mm) and xviii

19 ankle (228.39mm) s. And for the group 2 of females with age ranging from 16 to 25 years old to be foot length (242.92mm), width (85.00mm), joint (208.99mm), waist (219.71mm), instep (207.28mm), long heel (302.96mm), short heel (276.30mm) and ankle (246.01mm) s. And for the group 3 of females with age ranging from 26 to 54 years old to be foot length (256.45mm), width (97.55mm), joint (236.29mm), waist (229.24mm), instep (241.95mm), long heel (352.90mm), short heel (332.26mm) and ankle (268.00mm) s. For males groups, the analysis determined the common foot measurements for the group 4 of males with age ranging from 5 to 15 years old to be foot length (226.45mm), width (91.47mm), joint ( mm), waist (206.95mm), instep (218.23mm), long heel ( mm), short heel (287.42mm) and ankle (235.57mm) s. And for the group 5 of males with age ranging from 16 to 25 years old to be foot length ( mm), width (103.78mm), joint (242.26mm), waist (239.19mm), instep (257.92mm), long heel (343.88mm), short heel (318.15mm) and ankle (263mm) s. And for the group 6 of males with age ranging from 26 to 60 years old to be foot length (270.26mm), width (107.26mm), joint (249.42mm), waist (246.23mm), instep (255.61mm), long heel (366.77mm), short heel (349.29mm) and ankle (272.90mm) s. These results will surely the base on which the suitable shoe size and fitting system for the six groups to be made. In addition to the above, comparative analysis was conducted for the six groups between the foot length and s which determine the common measurements for their feet and gave a clear picture for variations of foot sizes and shapes according to sex and age groups. مستخلص الد ارسة xix

20 اجري هذا البحث كمحاولة للتعرف على الشكل و التركیب التشریحي للقدم السودانیة فیما یتعلق بمجال صناعة الاحذیة ومحاولة الوصول لمقترح بنظام للقیاس وضبط للاحذیة داخل ولایة الخرطوم. د ارسة الى بالاضافة تشریح القدم وبكل ما یتعلق بالقدم من مؤاث ارت تؤثر على شكل القدم السودانیة. في القسم الاول من الد ارسة و عبر استبیان عینة من المختصین بلغت 480 فرد یعملون في المؤسسات الصحیة وذلك للاجابة عن بعض الاسي لة التي تدور حول اكثر العوامل تا ثی ار على شكل القدم السودانیة و تم تحدید عوامل اتساع مساحة السودان و طبیعة الارض و طبیعة العمل و طبیعة الغذاء و العامل الو ارثي. و في القسم الثاني من الد ارسة اجري مسح میداني لعینة تتا لف من الذكور و الاناث بمختلف في اتهم العمریة بولایة الخرطوم بلغت عدد 172 فرد من الذكور قسموا الى ثلاثة مجموعات عمریة و عدد 155 فرد من الاناث قسموا الى ثلاثة مجموعات عمریة حیث تم قیاس ابعاد طول القدم و عرضها مع محیطات مفصل القدم و وسط القدم و مشط القدم و الكعب الطویل للقدم و الكعب القصیر و كاحل القدم. اخضعت النتاي ج المتحصل علیها من القسم الاول من البحث للتحلیل عبر برنامج الحزم الاحصاي یة للعلوم الاجتماعیة SPSS و التى اظهر التحلیل ان عامل طبیعة العمل اكثر تا ثی ار على شكل القدم من طبیعة الغذاء و طبیعة الارض عند المقارنة بینهم. و كذلك وجد ان عامل طبیعة العمل اكثر تا ثی ار من عامل طبیعة الغذاء عند المقارنة بینهما. كما وجد ان العامل الو ارثي اكثر تا ثی ار على شكل القدم من عوامل طبیعة العمل و طبیعة الارض و طبیعة الغذاء عند المقارنة بینهم. و مما سبق توصل الى ان كل من العامل الو ارثي و طبیعة العمل لهما اكبر اثر على شكل القدم السودانیة من عوامل طبیعة الارض و الغذاء. وكذلك اخضعت نتاي ج القسم الثاني من البحث للتحلیل عبر برنامج الحزم الاحصاي یة للعلوم الاجتماعیة SPSS و قد توصل الى ان متوسطات ابعاد القدم للمجموعة الاولى و التي تتا لف من الاناث ذو الاعمار بین طول القدم هي سنة الى ( و عرضها( ) مع محیطات مفصل القدم( 204 و وسط القدم( و مشط القدم و الكعب الطویل للقدم و الكعب القصیر( و كاحل ) القدم( و متوسطات ابعاد القدم للمجموعة الثانیة و التي تتا لف من الاناث ذو xx

21 242.92) 25 الاعمار بین 16 الى سنة هي طول القدم و عرضها( مع ( محیطات مفصل القدم( و وسط القدم( و مشط القدم و الكعب الطویل للقدم ) و الكعب القصیر( و كاحل القدم( ملم). و متوسطات ابعاد القدم للمجموعة الثالثة و التي تتا لف من الاناث ذو الاعمار ) 54 الى بین 26 سنة هي طول القدم و عرضها( مع محیطات ) مفصل القدم( و وسط القدم( مشط القدم و و الكعب ) الطویل للقدم ) و الكعب القصیر( و كاحل القدم ملم). بالنسبة للذكور قد توصل الى ان متوسطات ابعاد القدم للمجموعة ال اربعة و التي تتا لف من ) 15 5 الذكور ذو الاعمار بین الى سنة هي طول القدم و عرضها( ) مع محیطات مفصل القدم( و وسط القدم( و مشط القدم ) و الكعب الطویل للقدم و الكعب القصیر( و كاحل القدم( و متوسطات ابعاد القدم للمجموعة الخامسة و التي تتا لف من ذو الاعمار الذكور ) 25 الى بین 16 سنة هي طول القدم و عرضها( مع محیطات ) مفصل القدم( و وسط القدم( و مشط القدم و الكعب الطویل للقدم ) و الكعب القصیر( و كاحل القدم( و ملم) متوسطات ابعاد القدم للمجموعة السادسة و التي تتا لف من الاناث ذو الاعمار بین الى سنة هي طول القدم ( و عرضها( مع محیطات مفصل ) القدم( و وسط القدم( و مشط القدم و الكعب الطویل ) ملم). للقدم ) و الكعب القصیر( و كاحل القدم و شكلت المعلومات السابقة مقاسات الحذاء الانسب لالباس المجموعات الستة. بالاضافة لما ذكر اجریت مقارنة بین اطوال الاقدام و المحیطات بالنسبة للمجموعات الستة حددت الاطوال الشاي عة و اعطت صور متعدد لاحجام الاقدام وفق النوع و الفي ة العمریة xxi